How to Make a Wig with Bundles and a Closure: A Step-by-Step Factory Guide
Making a wig with bundles and a closure takes two to three bundles of human hair, a 4x4 or 5x5 lace closure, a dome cap, and a few hours of careful sewing. It is one of the most cost-effective ways to get a custom human hair wig — and one of the most profitable skills a stylist or hair seller can learn. At Arrow Exim, a raw Indian temple hair factory in Chennai operating since 2011 and shipping to customers in more than 30 countries, many of our wholesale buyers are wig makers who turn our bundles and closures into finished units. This guide covers the full process, from choosing materials to the final styling.
What you need to make a wig
Gather everything before you start — stopping mid-sew to hunt for supplies is how wefts end up crooked. A basic wig-making kit includes:
2–3 bundles of human hair (raw or virgin hair holds up best to repeated styling)
A lace closure (4x4 or 5x5), or a 13x4 frontal if you want a full ear-to-ear hairline
A dome cap or mesh wig cap, ideally with an adjustable strap and combs
A canvas mannequin head and a stand, plus T-pins to hold everything in place
A curved needle and strong nylon or polyester weaving thread
Sharp scissors, sectioning clips, and a tail comb
Optional: lace tint, tweezers for plucking, and a razor for trimming excess lace
How many bundles and which closure size?
For lengths up to about 18 inches, two bundles plus a closure are usually enough for a natural 150% density wig. From 20 to 24 inches, plan on three bundles, and for 26 inches and longer — or for a very full 200% density unit — use three to four. Wefts get shorter as bundles get longer, so longer wigs always need more hair.
On lace size: a 4x4 closure is the easiest option for beginners and covers a standard middle or side part. A 5x5 gives more parting space and a slightly more versatile finish, while a 13x4 frontal creates a full hairline for pulled-back styles but takes more skill to customize. If this is your first unit, start with a 4x4 or 5x5 closure.
Step-by-step: making a wig with bundles and a closure
Here is the standard cut-and-sew method used by most wig makers:
Measure the head. Take the circumference, front-to-nape, and ear-to-ear measurements — or use a standard medium cap (about 22 to 22.5 inches) if the wig is for resale.
Prepare the cap. Pin the dome cap onto the mannequin head at those measurements, keeping it smooth but not stretched, so the finished wig is not too tight.
Attach the closure. Position the closure at the front hairline, pin it flat, and sew around its full perimeter through both the lace and the cap.
Sew the wefts. Starting at the nape, sew rows of weft across the cap in a U-shape, keeping rows about 1 cm apart for even, gap-free coverage.
Finish each row. Cut the weft at the end of a row and lock it with a double stitch, or fold it and continue — cutting lies flatter, folding leaves fewer cut ends.
Fill to the closure. Keep sewing rows until the last weft sits just behind the closure with no cap showing between them.
Customize the lace. Tint the lace to the skin tone, lightly pluck the closure hairline with tweezers, and trim excess lace with a razor for a clean melt.
Cut and style. Try the wig on, cut face-framing layers if wanted, then wash, condition, and air-dry the unit before its first wear.
Sewing machine vs hand-sewing
Hand-sewing with a curved needle gives the most control and is the standard way to learn — a first unit typically takes three to five hours. A sewing machine cuts construction time to under an hour and produces very uniform rows, which is why salons making wigs in volume usually machine-sew. Finished quality depends far more on row spacing and thread tension than on which method you choose.
Common wig-making mistakes to avoid
Most first-wig problems trace back to a few avoidable errors: sewing rows too far apart (a gappy, see-through look), stretching the cap while sewing (the wig comes out too tight), catching only one layer of weft with the needle (shedding), over-plucking the closure (bald spots that cannot be undone), and skipping the final wash (a stiff, lifeless unit). Slow, even stitching solves most of these on its own.
Frequently asked questions
How many bundles do I need to make a wig?
Two bundles with a closure for lengths up to 18 inches, three bundles for 20 to 24 inches, and three to four bundles for 26 inches and longer or for very high density. Because wefts get shorter as length increases, longer wigs always need more bundles.
Can I make a wig without a frontal?
Yes — a closure wig is the better beginner project. A 4x4 or 5x5 closure needs far less customization than a frontal, can be worn glueless, and still gives a natural-looking part. A frontal only becomes necessary when you want a full ear-to-ear hairline for pulled-back styles.
How long does it take to make a wig?
A first hand-sewn unit usually takes three to five hours, and experienced makers finish in about two. Machine sewing brings construction down to roughly an hour, plus extra time for lace customization and styling.
Should I bleach the knots before or after making the wig?
Bleach the knots on the closure before sewing it down, while the lace is loose and easy to lay flat. Bleaching after construction risks getting bleach on the cap and wefts. You can also buy closures with knots already bleached and skip this step entirely.
What density should a homemade wig be?
150% is the sweet spot for a natural everyday look and is what two to three bundles typically produce. 180% to 200% gives a fuller, more glamorous finish but needs an extra bundle and tighter rows. Much below 130% tends to look thin on a full wig.
Is it cheaper to make a wig than to buy one ready-made?
Usually, yes. Buying bundles and a closure at wholesale prices and sewing the unit yourself typically costs noticeably less than a comparable ready-made human hair wig at retail, which is why many stylists make units for clients and for resale. Exact savings depend on the hair's length, origin, and where you source it.
What thread should I use for wig making?
Use strong nylon or polyester weaving thread in a color that matches the hair — black for most units. Ordinary cotton sewing thread snaps and deteriorates with washing. Double-thread your curved needle and knot securely at the start and end of every row.
Arrow Exim is a raw Indian temple hair factory in Chennai, Tamil Nadu, manufacturing hair extensions, bundles, closures, frontals, and wigs since 2011 and shipping factory-direct to wholesale and retail customers in more than 30 countries. If you are ready to make your first unit — or you make wigs professionally and want consistent raw hair at factory prices — message us on WhatsApp at +91 98841 11108 or email sales@arrowexim.com for a current price list and sample options.
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